Lisbon (1956), a crime adventure starring Ray Milland and Maureen O´Hara, was shot on location in the capital of Portugal, but also in nearby places like Sintra and Belém. I was on holiday there and took the opportunity to visit most of the spots, where actual movie scenes where filmed. Open up a Portugese wine or beer, sit back and relax while watching me in the characters footsteps. 1956 or 2023? What do you prefer?
Praça do Comércio
Serafim (Francis Lederer) is looking for Evan´s boat and asks a sailor where it is. In the background, you can see the famous Praça do Comércio. At the center, a statue of King José I.
In 2023, the water no longer reaches the small wall and the stairs were removed. Besides that pretty much the same. Even the lanterns have not changed.
Tagus River
Captain Evans (Ray Milland) on his boat at the Tagus River. He talks to his first mate Samy (actor unknown).
The Tagus River today. A panoramic view near sunset time. Just imagine Evans boat somewhere!
Aeroporto de Lisboa
Sylvia (Maureen O´Hara), the wife of the imprisoned millionaire Lloyd Merrill (Percy Marmont), arrives at the airport in Lisbon.
My airport of departure was surely different. But the destination and airline are the same as in 1956.
Arrival area outside the main entrance in 1956. Sylvia (Maureen O´Hara) is leaving in a cab. She gets followed.
The pick up and taxi section near the main entrance of Lisbon´s airport in 2023.
Palácio Nacional de Queluz
Maria (Yvonne Furneaux) and Evans (Ray Milland) having dinner at the restaurant Cozinha Velha. It´s located near the Palácio Nacional de Queluz.
They leave in the dark for a walk.
I hopped off at Queluz, during my train ride back to Lisbon and visited the exact same place. It was not possible to get inside as the restaurant only opens for special events.
Maria (Yvonne Furneaux) and Evans (Ray Milland) continue their stroll. The statue of Maria I, Queen of Portugal from 1777 to 1816, is visible on the right.
The plaza in 2023 and the statue is still there. I noticed that the bell tower on the right is not visible in the movie. It´s the Pousada Palácio de Queluz. In early days, the building was used by the Royal Guard of the court. Today, it´s a luxury hotel.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
The next location is Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. An imposing monastery in Belém. The lovers stroll through the complex. But they are followed by Serafim (Francis Lederer), which is in love with Maria (Yvonne Furneaux) too. He wants Evans (Ray Milland) out of his way …
On my visit, I searched for the same path. But an endless line of people wanted get into the monastery. Is it possible that Maria and Evans walked behind those windows back in 1956?
Maria (Yvonne Furneaux) lights a candle in the church of Santa Maria de Belém.
A picture from the church in 2023. I also tried to get inside. Well, there was a weeding that day and entering wasn´t permitted …
… but for a moment I thought of crashing the weeding by entering through a secret side way. Could the glimmering light be from Maria´s candles? Maybe they burn forever! 😉
Castelo de São Jorge
Later that night, Maria (Yvonne Furneaux) and Evans (Ray Milland) go to a bar. They dance to original Fado music. As soon as the sun rises, they finish their date at one of the most famous places in Lisbon. Castelo de São Jorge with it´s breathtaking view over the whole city.
The bar scenes where probably shot in studio. But enjoy the panorama from the castle in 2023.
Within less then 10 minutes of film running time, Evans and Maria visit three locations. Five, if you count the restaurant and bar as well. Queluz (Palace), Belém (Church) and Lisbon (Castle) are actually many miles apart. Very unrealistic to visit all these spots by foot within a date of one night. But that´s ok and an old trick of directors which shot on location pictures. Film scenes at famous places, cut them together and make it look like that everything is just around the corner.
Sintra
Sylvia (Maureen O´Hara) and Evans (Ray Milland) visit Sintra. They enjoy a breathtaking view.
Similar view. This time in 2023.
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Here´s some additional movie trivia for you. Both flicks have Lisbon in it´s title. But they were shot entirely in studio.
Thanks for reading.
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